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As I remember from the last time I was here, the guys are, by and large, large and tough and (if they're young) angrily anti-America. This is important to keep in mind as you watch them standing in front of the mirror at the subway station fixing their hair, a Gucci purse clutched under one arm. Bizarre, but apparently that's the fashion and it's ok here. At least the "extremely long pointy elf-shoe" look has died down in the past four years, replaced by more normal shoes, though you still see a few here and there.
If you see it from above, the most striking thing about Seoul at night is the prevalence of glowing red neon crosses, spread like glistening salmon roe across the grey backdrop of the buildings. The Christian sect here is apparently quite aggressive and evil, and, like Sith disciples naturally gravitating towards red lightsabers, they instinctively choose the most evil color possible for their crucifixes.
We came across a little protest the other day on behalf of the Buddhists who had their temples and statues etc. defaced by enraged Christians. Club Anti, they're called. Many photos of statues with their faces torn off or defaced by spray-paint crosses (red) and ransacked temples. Very Crusades.
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